How to prepare the house for a reform?

Details and how to make a comprehensive reform in barcelona or urban area

We go on to detail concepts and ideas for the complete execution part by part of a comprehensive reform of a flat or house, which can also serve as an idea for partial renovations, or renovations of bathrooms, or renovations of kitchens, renovations of ceilings, floors …


Obviously there are common elements that should be demolished or removed in any comprehensive reform.

On the other hand, the client must have a forecast of what distribution changes he wants to make in the apartment, since they are the basis of the integral reform, and when executed in the initial phases, they must be well defined and if the intervention of a technician / architect, or better drawing of plans to evaluate all the alternatives, and affectations.

When the partitions are demolished, it is necessary to assess whether they are indeed normal partitions, or load-bearing or master walls, or even façade, and make sure that they do not affect ceilings, beams, reinforcements …

And in any case, in the case of being teachers, shit or façade, the intervention of an architect is always essential, either with a project or at least through supervision, execution of tastings, to see if it is necessary to carry out fellings, insert reinforcement beams or other reinforcement measures in ceilings or old wooden beams …

Detail of the usual EXTRACTIONS in comprehensive reforms

  • Ceilings replaced
  • Antique sockets
  • Tiled walls, and old batter trimmed to make them ready for new batter and tiling
  • Current electricity / plumbing / gas installations
  • Current interior doors
  • Current exterior carpentry
  • Kitchen, bathroom and laundry furniture if applicable

Extracting current soils is not included unless otherwise indicated:

  • That is, the new flooring is usually laid on top of the current ones, especially if the new flooring is parquet, which is relatively light and only 1cm thick.
  • But this can have several alternatives, because if the current floor is already on another and previous ones, neither by weight nor by height, a new floor can be added on top.
  • Then it would be necessary to remove the current floor and probably then level it where necessary, before putting the new one.
  • Likewise, it may be that the original floor is already in poor condition or has unevenness, or these are caused by knocking down partitions or making changes in distribution, so in these cases it would also be necessary to level in areas or throughout the floor.
  • After all demolitions and extractions, it will be necessary to proceed with the Sanitation of the areas affected by demolition and extractions, especially in sores on floors left by demolition of partitions and ceilings.
  • Of course, it will be necessary to TRANSPORT all RUNAS to an authorized or specialized container depending on the case.


There are mainly two systems of building new partitions:

  1. Of work, with 4, 7 or 1cms ribs, and in the case of 15cms facades or geros or 15 or 20cms concrete blocks for facades).
  2. Made of plasterboard, which would be used for interior partitions, or cladding, and normally have fiber or rock wool inside to insulate better; the cladding serves to re-create a dated or interior wall, to isolate it or if it is too thin to allow installations to pass.

Normally the façade compositions usually have a 15 or 20cms work, an insulator later (fiber or porexpan) and internally they can have 4cms plasterboard or Mahón

Which interior partition system is better?

  • The masonry is more resistant and allows later to hang heavy elements.
  • The plasterboard is faster and saves having to do regattas for the facilities.

Given that its cost is similar or practically the same, it would be the client’s choice based on the harder finish that allows to load weight, or with the flexibility that plasterboard gives.

Acoustic insulation:

  • To improve the acoustics in the case of interior partitions, you can put blue or acoustic plasterboard, which eliminates several decibels, as well as wider profiles of 7-8cms instead of 4-5cms, to allow to put a double layer of fiber;
  • In case of being of work, it would be enough to put a Mahón of 10 or even 15cms if space is available, or put one of 4cms and transfer on one side with fiber + plasterboard (if it can be blue / acoustic plasterboard, better
  • To isolate the existing walls from the outside or neighbors, I would add a lining of acoustic / blue plasterboard with fiber / rock wool of high density, not the conventional one and preferably put rubbers around the perimeter, to avoid vibrations
  • In very serious cases to isolate noise from neighbors, it might be advisable to put an extra layer of copopren or special acoustic membranes, and it will probably also be necessary to protect or insulate the ceiling totally or partially in that area
  • In general, when building interior partitions, of course, these should go up to the ceiling or real slab, and not up to the false ceiling, to avoid the acoustic bridge from above, and through the floor it is preferable to extract the original floor to install the partition from the slab bottom, to prevent impact noise from penetrating the partition
  • After the completion of the new partition, it will be necessary if they are brick walls for plastering and if they are plasterboard for their curb, in both cases to prepare for painting
  • Final cleaning.


  • the most common practice is to put them in the kitchen and bathrooms, since they are necessary to pass their facilities, and to put correct lighting
  • its usual execution is usually with plasterboard for taping and painting
  • Although it is not strange to extend them to the entrance area and main corridor, since where the painting is located and the main lines come out, it is convenient to have a false ceiling
  • According to the client’s wishes, they can be extended to the dining room and bedrooms, although in practice in rooms, LED ceiling lights are almost never used, but rather lamps.
  • Recessed ceilings: sometimes the false ceilings are recessed either to make curtains (to leave space), or to allow indirect perimeter lights, such as with LED strips
  • When the ceiling height does not reach or is over 2.50mts and false ceilings cannot be put, it is convenient to leave the original and you can always take a flat point of light to have a wall lamp or lamp depending on the areas.
  • Sometimes putting false ceilings may be necessary to isolate or to cover cracks or current poor condition of the original floor.
  • In the case of antique or decorative ceilings, volta catalana, it may be advisable not to put false ceilings except in the bathroom.
  • It is no longer carried or practical to put aluminum ceilings with slats, since they are not very aesthetic, little insulating, complicated to insert spotlights, and also the practicality of the upper access if necessary, is supplemented with the option of making registers in the plasterboard


  • In the bathroom area, there are waterproof plates for wet areas, that is, green plasterboard, which is waterproof, it would also be possible in the kitchen
  • Blue acoustic plates in case of acoustic problems would be convenient
  • For acoustic thermal insulation it is convenient to put fiber or rock wool on top of the ceiling
  • In case of serious problems of upper convecin noise and to properly isolate, it would be necessary to put at least one special anti-vibration butyl-type sheet, and copopren and / or high-density fiber / wool and acoustic blue plasterboard.

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